Top 10 Bites of 2014
I
love looking back on some of the experiences I had over the course of the year
at this time every year. Year after year, Philadelphia really blows me away
with its quality and incredible ability to continue improving. This year was
absolutely crazy in terms of quality openings and quality meals devoured. Some
of the food coming out of the kitchens in this city is on another level. Here
is a quick recap of the greatest hits of the year for me.
10.
The Grilled Seitan at Vedge -
simple, yet so incredibly delicious. I dare anyone that says they don’t like
vegan food to go to Vedge and tell me the same thing again after they eat
there. I never thought I would like it, but its almost impossible not to love
everything coming out of the kitchen there. One of the standouts for me was the
grilled seitan. Seitan is a meat replacement product popular in vegan food
because it is made from wheat gluten. This particular seitan was charred on the
grill and served over cabbage, mustard seeds, and a creamy puree. The flavor
was outstanding, and you never would have known it was vegan fare because of
the huge flavor.
9.
The Pheasant Ravioli in Brown Butter at
Le Virtu - Le Virtu gets a lot of praise for the food that they put out,
and with good reason. Its incredibly focused and true to what it is, and Joe
Cicala and Angela Ranalli are very sharp and accomplished at what they do. One
of the tastiest pastas I have ever had came out of the kitchen at Le Virtu. It
was my first experience with pheasant, and the filling was fantastic. It was
incredibly tender and well put together, creamy, but not too much and the pasta
was wonderfully toothsome. It had a lot of chew to it, but it a very good way.
And what is there to say about brown butter sauce and some mushrooms. Italian comfort
food at its finest.
8.
The Trentino Pizza at Osteria Jersey -
I was very happy when the Vetri family decided to open another star in their
empire across the bridge in New Jersey. I was even more excited when I found
out that some of the items I had never gotten to try at the original were
showing up on the menu there. One of those items, a pizza topped with speck,
figs, gorgonzola dolce and mozzarella cheese, was delicious beyond reason. It
had all of the elements of deliciousness you need for a perfect bite; sweet,
salt, smoke, cream, chew and crunch. Each and every bite was fantastic.
7.
The Porcini Pasta with Oxtail Ragu at
Amis vs. Osteria Cagematch - Some of the coolest things I did this year
with food was attend the cagematches held at Alla Spina. They stated out as
Vetri family restaurants against themselves and then eventually the winner of
those faced off against Zahav. The very first one featured Brad Spence and Amis
vs Jeff Michaud and Osteria. One of the secret ingredients was oxtail, and Brad
Spence used it in a meat ragu to go with his porcini pasta. What an incredibly
rich dish! The flavor was so warm and inviting, I couldn’t help myself and kept
shoveling it in to my mouth. I knew how much food was coming after it, but it
was so good I couldn’t stop.
6.
The Whitefish Bialy at High Street on
Market - While there are so many things I could have had on this list from
the hands of Eli Kulp and his team at their three restaurants, the one that
changed my food perspective the most was the Whitefish Bialy. I had it for the
first time, mere days after they opened, and I was completely floored. First
off, a savory pastry? Dope. Second, whitefish stuffed into the middle, topped
with caramelized onions and pickled peppers. Finally, the bialy is super
crunchy, made from squid ink, and coated in sesame seeds. Sounds weird I know,
but it is one of the most fantastic things I have ever experienced.
5.
The Papas Fritas at Jamonera -
Jamonera replaced what I thought was one of the best Indian restaurants I had
eaten at since traveling to India in Bindi. I wasn’t sure of what to expect
when we went there, but holy crap that place is delicious. It has become my
favorite place for tapas in the city, and one of the reasons for that is the
Papas Fritas. They are incredibly crunchy, dusted with spicy paprika, and drizzled
with on eof the most delicious aiolis I have ever tasted. Chef Lindsay McClain
is killing it in the kitchen, and the food speaks for itself.
4.
The Lamb Loin at the Aldine Popup at
Cheu Noodle Bar - I enjoyed my entire meal at the Aldine popup at Cheu
Noodle Bar. George Sabatino is one of the most talented chefs in the city with unlimited
potential. His food had drawn raves at every place hes cooked at in recent
memory and for food reason. His technique is flawless and and he keeps it
simple but oh so interesting. The lamb loin was wrapped in sausage, boiled or
sous vide, and then seared off in a pan. The flavor was incredible. It was
served with green chickpeas, grains and a chenna dumpling. The dish was a
fantastic success for me, and I still think about the taste of that lamb loin.
3.
The Gnocchi with Pancetta at Laurel -
It was the hardest reservation I have ever tried to get, but it was so incredibly
worth it. Nicholas Elmi is phenomenally talented, and his first solo venture is
an incredibly success. They have been booked up since before he won Top Chef,
and they will continue to be so because the food is outstanding and the service
is fantastic. He runs a tight ship, and still takes the time to come out and
ask you how your meal was. Sometimes it the little things. When I watched Chef
Elmi make the gnocchi dish on Top Chef and get so emotional when talking about
how he makes it for his daughter, I knew I had to try it when I finally got to
his restaurant. It was so worth the wait. The gnocchi texture was out of this
world and the sauce was fantastic. It was cheesy and homey and warm and comforting.
I could have eaten extremely large amounts of it, and I have been craving more
ever since.
2.
The Tuna Poke at Vernick Food and Drink -
I was really excited when I got to take my fiancé to Vernick for her birthday.
Everything I heard about the place and food was great, so that naturally helped
build the anticipation. The wood fire craze in Philly started with Vernick and
continued with others. They have perfected the art form, but it wasn’t one of
their wood fired items that stole the show for me. It was the Tuna Poke. Cubes
of raw tuna, marinated with sweet soy, some form of chili and tossed with
macadamia nuts, it was incredibly satisfying to eat. It was sweet and salty, it
had a really nice textural contrast between the raw tuna and the crunchy
macadamia nuts, and it was just fun to eat. When I say mmm out loud, you know
the food is damn good.
1.
The Chicken Liver Mousse at Abe Fisher -
I had some fantastic dishes made by both the hands and the mind of Michael
Solomonov this year. I honestly probably could have made an entire top 10 list
of dishes I ate at his restaurants this year alone. Abe Fisher has seriously
top 5 restaurants in the city for me, and I love going to eat there. It’s a great
experience every time. The last time I was there, the kitchen sent us out the
chicken liver mousse which we hadn’t tried yet. The texture of the mousse was
about as good as I have had. The flavor was incredibly delightful and the
creaminess of it was unparalleled. The rye bread itw as served on was out of
this world. It was served thick cut and toasted just enough. The mousse, spread
on the bread and topped with the pastrami onion jam was pure bliss. You must
have this dish. You don’t want to miss it.
I
would love to hear back from anyone about dishes out there that they think are
top 10 worthy. Particularly I would love to hear about them so I know to try
them when I head to those places! Cheers!
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